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Bengalis have always been connoisseurs of good food. Eminent Bengalis, from Swami Vivekananda to Subhas Ch. Bose, are known to have been affectionate towards good food. Bengali cuisine is a rich and diverse culinary tradition originating from the Bengal region, which includes present-day Bangladesh and the Indian state of West Bengal. My intent has been to research and recollect the recipes that are dying with our grandmothers and mothers so that the tradition lives on for our daughters.
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Yellow peas curry - Ghugni from the traditional Bengali kitchen
‘Ghugni’ has been a staple food for ages in Bengal. It’s a poor man’s protein diet as well as a rich man’s snack. It was once the city’s staple cheap lunch available at roadside eateries, along with a loaf of bread. Cheap on the pocket, it is still a favourite at football club canteens, tea shops and college canteens. It has lost its past glory against the competition from egg rolls and chow-miens but it still has the price edge.
It comes in variations, with added mutton or minced meat.
Recently, I chanced upon a new option with goat fat. But I present here the traditional
‘Ghugni’ from Bengali kitchens that were prepared as an evening snack or a
morning breakfast complimented by a Parota.
Ingredients:
To pressure cook the peas
Dried white or yellow Peas - 1 cup
Water - 2½ cups
Turmeric powder - ½ tsp
Salt - 1 tsp
Other ingredients for Ghugni
Potato – 1 medium cubed
Onion – 1 large finely chopped
Ginger – 2 inches peeled and diced
Green Chillies – 2 for paste
Garlic paste – 1 tsp
Large Tomato - 1 deseeded and diced
Green Chillies – 2 whole or half slit
Bay leaf - 1
Dry red Chillies - 2
1-inch Cinnamon stick
Cumin seeds – ½ tsp
Turmeric powder – ½ tsp
Red Chilli powder - 1 tsp
Cumin powder - ½ tsp
Coriander powder - ½ tsp
Garam Masala powder - ¼ tsp
Bhaja masala – 1 tsp
Sugar – 1 tsp
Boiled Peas stock - 2 cups
Mustard oil – 2 tbsp
Onions - 2 finely chopped (For garnishing)
Green Chilli - 1 finely chopped (For garnishing)
Bhaja masala – 1 pinch (For garnishing) Dry roast 1 bay leaf,
2 dry red chillis, 1 tsp coriander seeds, and 1 tsp cumin seeds on medium heat in a
skillet. Grind them in a mixer to make a powder.
Lemon wedge – 1 for serving
Instructions:
In a large bowl take the dried peas and soak in enough water
for at least 8 hours. The dried peas shall increase in size getting soaked. Drain
the water and wash the soaked peas properly.
Place the soaked peas in a pressure cooker.
Add 2½ cups of water, 1 tsp salt, ½ tsp turmeric powder. Stir
and close the lid of the pressure cooker.
Put the pressure cooker on medium heat and steam till 3
whistles. Let the pressure cooker cool and release the pressure.
Separate the boiled peas and the stock into two different bowls.
Add the ginger pieces, green chillies to a grinder and grind
it to a smooth paste with little water. Keep it aside.
Put a skillet on the heat. Add 2 tablespoons of Mustard oil and let
it heat.
Once the oil is hot, add 2 dry red chillies, 1 bay leaf, 1-inch cinnamon stick, ½ teaspoon cumin seeds and let them crackle.
Add the chopped onions into the skillet and stir well. Cook
over medium heat for 5-6 minutes, stirring in between.
Add the garlic paste, and ginger-green chilli pastes into the skillet
and mix them well. Cook on low flame for 2-3 minutes until the raw smell goes off.
Add potato cubes into the skillet and mix. Cover the skillet
and cook on low flame for 4-5 minutes.
Add pieces of tomato, salt, and turmeric powder into the skillet
and mix them well. Cover with a lid and cook on low flame until all the vegetables
are cooked.
Add ½ tsp cumin powder, ½ tsp coriander powder, 1 tsp red
chilli powder and mix well. Add 2 tbsp of water and cook the masala on low
flame for 1-2 minutes.
Add the boiled yellow peas, and 2 green chillies into the skillet
and mix well. Cover the skillet and cook it for a couple of minutes.
Add 2 cups boiled yellow peas stock into the skillet and
stir well. Cover the skillet and allow the gravy to boil.
In low flame add 1 tsp sugar, 1 tsp bhaja masala, ¼ tsp
garam masala powder and let the gravy simmer in low flame for 2 minutes.
Switch off the flame and put the skillet down.
Serve with some chopped onion, chopped green chillies and a
pinch of roasted spices (bhaja masala) sprinkled on top.
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